In nature, shrimp live off food rich in fibres, but rather poor in proteins and carbohydrates. Their main staple consists of dead tree leaves and other plant parts in the water, and also of the occasional (but seldom) dead aquatic animal or insect that have fallen in. Shrimp are your typical destruent, feeding on everything left over. Shrimp food thus ought to fulfill these criteria: relatively poor in protein and carbohydrates, rich in fibres. Most of the shrimp species typically kept in hobbyists’ tanks do not have claws suitable for taking things apart, but are covered with bristles – the animals use them to wipe off aufwuchs, bacterial plaques and the like, or to eat soft, moulding materials. Our shrimp do not tolerate pesticides at all, so please do not feed fruit or vegetables from unknown sources. Even careful scrubbing won’t remove these toxic substances entirely, when in doubt, peel! Food plants from your own garden or from organic farming are highly preferrable. In order to make hard veggies digestible they ought to be boiled over or even cook them. Shrimp do not eat veggie peels, these ought to be removed before feeding (unless you like picking out little peel rests out of your tank, of course). Feed moderately. Two to three times a week is sufficient. Left-over food has to be taken out of the tank after 12 hours at the very latest. If you do not have fresh veggies on hand you could resort to frozen ones. Veggies from a can are not suitable, as most manufacturers add sugar to the contents. Sugar has a strong polluting effect on the water and can lead to a bacteria bloom (and oxygen deprivation). Some vegetables highly suitable as shrimp food can be dried for storage, like pumpkin or stinging nettle. Keep cool, dry and in containers permeable to air. Food that’s too high in proteins (especially proteins that do not come from aquatic animals) may lead to a speedy growth and thus to molting problems, in many cases even to the shrimp’s death. Thus it ought to be given rather seldomly. Recommendable without restrictions: brown autumn leaves of broad-leaved trees (oak, beech, maple, birch, apple, pear, …..). Important: Do not collect on roads with heavy traffic, do not use leaves of trees that had been sprayed or treated in some other way! Indian almond leaves (Catappa leaves) fresh green leaves, or leaves picked green and then dried (e.g. walnut, hazelnut, edible chestnut) fresh stinging nettle or dandelion leaves (boiled over) or picked green and then dried, loose-leaf teas of these plants are also a possibility duckweed (boiled over or cooked, or heated in the microwave) spinach (fresh and boiled over, or frozen) straw pellets (e.g. pet litters – make sure the pellets only consist of straw) special dry food for shrimp with a low protein content (under 30%) Spirulina, Chlorella, or other powdered algae (either add to the water as they are or make a thick mash with water, apply on rocks, let dry and put into tank – also a great first food for finicky snails collected from the wild) Recommendable, but only with restrictions (because these food items are not very much like those shrimp will find in nature) pepper (mind: conventionally-grown peppers are often polluted with pesticides!!!) cucumber (do not leave in the tank for more than a few hours, definitely not over night, can lead to turbid water) zucchini pumpkin pumpkin or zucchini flowers tomato carrot (only boiled, far too hard when uncooked) Recommendable with restrictions (due to high protein content: feed only once or twice a week dry fish, shrimp or crayfish food (preferrably with proteins coming from aquatic animals, best aquatic inverts) frozen fish food freeze-dried fish food peas (remove hard shell-like skin) Not recommendable Food high in starch or sugar like pasta, potato, banana or other sweet fruits – starch or sugar may lead to a bacteria bloom and thus to oxygen deprivation. Worst-case scenario: shrimp may even die of that.